We had heard very good things about Dendera Temple. It was in my mind and we definitely wanted to visit. Although our private driver didn’t want at first to take us there, he finally agreed. We woke up early morning and started a drive that turned out to be more than 4 hours.
Our driver took roads where police checkpoints are all around. The car had to stop at each one and it was required that we waited for a convoy to follow. How is that for feeling safe? How is that not putting tourists more in danger if they are travelling together behind a police vehicle? Funny enough the convoys were usually old cars that carried a few officers. Trust me, it did not feel any safer.

The bad news is that in Egypt almost every attraction closes at 4 pm, so travelling the whole morning didn’t make it any easier. We skipped lunch and started with Temple of Seti I. Not very big, but definitely stunning. Very close to it- actually behind it, we found the path that would take us to the ruins of the Temple of Ramses II.
We started walking and were suddenly stopped by an armed officer. He was asking us to wait for a walking police convoy that was supposed to lead us. We needed to wait for another tourist couple/group, so we could go together. It was just a few steps ahead! Can’t be possible! How can you say no? We waited, in the sun!
Another armed officer arrived a few minutes later and started to guide us there. The neighborhood around the temple seemed unsafer (probably because we were behind an officer). It was a wide open space and you could see some buildings far across the side. What if someone was pointing at us from a window? No way we were safe. We dealt with it, we continued. We stopped once to pick up the guy that had the key to the temple. Apparently, it needs to remain closed as not a lot of people walk all the way there. Once we arrived, it was all ours. Very small, not too much to see. But everything in Egypt is worth visiting!
Back to the road. We had very limited time to get to Dendera Temple and unfortunately roads in Egypt are chaotic. Mostly unpaved, they don’t have any clear lanes and you do see all types of transportation: cars, buses, vans, bicycles, motorcycles, tok-toks, donkeys, horses and pedestrians. Were we going to make it?
Well, we did at the end of the day and I am so glad! This was my favorite stop. The Dendera Temple is not very spectacular on the outside, but is absolutely remarkable on the inside. Detailed, colorful, and extremely well preserved. Don’t miss any room, go upstairs and don’t forget the outside. An absolute must see. A complete jewel. WOW!

Of course, the visit took more than expected. We stayed there until they closed. We were escorted out of the building with the last group. Egyptians do make sure they get out ON TIME. No exceptions.
We returned to Luxor at night. Unfortunately, not much to do for tourists. Yes, you can party, have dinner or shop. Not much more than that and we are not either type. We decided to visit the Karnak Temple for their night show. How terrible could it be?
Well, to be fair is was not as good or as bad as you could expect. It does take a whole hour and the ticket doubles the price of on at daytime. However, they do narrate the pharaohs story and light up the place as you move forward through the temple. It is not very crowded. It doesn’t go through every single stop. But definitely, is the perfect temperature to visit.
We left by 9 pm. The way back to the hotel was walk-able distance, but we were exhausted. There are usually a few taxis and horse rides that will offer to take you for a reasonable fare – if you negotiate in advance. We went for the horse ride, that cost us 20 Egyptian Pounds (around a US dollar). Not bad at all! The driver was actually a very nice guy. There is not many of those around there!