Palestine had been forever on my bucket list. Maybe as my morbid curiosity demands some historical answers, maybe as my heart pulls me to relate to what seems unfair. When we were planning for this trip, we considered various options for going into the West Bank. A tour seemed like the easy choice. Although research was trying to show us that you can cross by yourself no problem, we decided to play it simple and safe. We booked the “Best of the West Bank Tour from Jerusalem” that departs everyday from the well-known Abraham Hostel.
That morning we woke up early as traffic can get crazy around Israel. As we knew it was going to be faster to take the light rail, we planned our journey in advance. The process was indeed fairly simple. Tickets machines are in English, Hebrew and Arabic. They do accept credit cards. The only downside is that you have to pay the ticket the day you will use it as the day is printed on it. The rail runs on a schedule and its quite punctual.
Our journey to the hostel was easy and fast. For rush hour, not many people on the train. As planned, we got to the hostel by 7:30 am. There was a lot of people waiting in the reception area for different tours. However, the process was very organized. We were ready to go at 8 am.
Our first stop was the Baptism Site, by the Jordan River. Nothing very special. It was a very quick stop but very interesting dynamics. The guide will encourage you to go into the water or to touch it, at least. It doesn’t seem as appealing and to be honest, mosquitoes were literally ALL over the place.
On the other hand, there was another tour group visiting that captivated my attention. They were indeed performing baptisms on this site. People dressed up in white tunics were going all the way into the water while the other prayed and clapped in cheers.
Next on the list was to explore the ancient city of Jericho, also known as the promised land. The oldest city of the world. Quite a surprising oasis in the middle of the desert. 10,000 years of history portrayed in magnificent ruins that deny burying the stories of the past. Devastated and rebuilt. A magical place, a surreal contrast.
The drive was all the way to the vibrant, modern city of Ramallah. Fast food chains, narrow streets but terrible traffic, diverse farmers markets filled with locals, the home of Stars & Bucks (but not of Starbucks) and the only place I have seen a Nutella store. Very crowded but very special place to visit. Especially when you go to the Arafat Mausoleum. Made of glass and beige Jerusalem stone, is surrounded on three sides by water, and a piece of rail track is entombed underneath Arafat’s grave.
The water and piece of track are meant to symbolize the temporary nature of the grave, with Palestinians planning to rebury their leader one day in Jerusalem at the Dome of the Rock compound on the Temple Mount , their hoped-for capital. Indeed, the message on the tomb indicated that the final resting place of Arafat shall be in Jerusalem, if it comes under Palestinian control.
Yasser Arafat died Nov. 11, 2004, at age 75, in a French military hospital and was buried on the grounds of his West Bank headquarters. The exact cause of death remains unknown, fueling persistent rumors among the Palestinians that was poisoned.
On the way out of Ramallah you get to contemplate isolation and a stolen piece of paradise that is trying to overcome the wounds of the past. It feels like starting over. It feels so lonely but at the same time, so full of life. Palestinians are very welcoming people that have lots to say, stories to share, if anyone is willing to listen. Their chocolate croissants at Sanabel Backeries House are possibly the best I have tried in my life – not for nothing I ended up eating a whole box!
We arrived to Bethlehem after a 50 minute drive. I was anxious to see the the Church of the Nativity, the place where Jesus was born. All our group got in no problem and started going around the church. Admirable simple and beautiful. A few minutes after, we were out.
However, I started to wonder about a big line that I saw inside. It was to go down the stairs. The guide told me that those people were visiting the actual site where Jesus was born. Dah? But I wanted to see that!
Believe or not, he didn’t consider making the line as it seemed too long and the itinerary wasn’t going to allow it. He asked the group to go into the van and we headed up to the wall. I wasn’t feeling very comfortable but for sure was interested in experiencing how it feels to be on the other side. It was indeed quite eye opening. Filled with Bansky graffiti and art of all kinds, there were a few that got my attention. Each one of was a desperate claim for peace, a desperate cry for freedom. We got to be there for almost an hour.
However, the feeling of missing the real site where Jesus was born was hunting me down. My husband and I went back to the guide and asked for options to see it. He did offer to take us back, but we would have to find our way back to Israel. Everything we were NOT planning to do, right?
After giving it a lot of thought and actually quite scared, we took the deal. The guide arranged a taxi that was going to take us back to the Church and to the border crossing (Palestinian taxis are not allowed to go into Israel). We would have to go through immigration at the checkpoint with our passport and then find transportation inside Israel. Funny enough, three other people from the tour decided to join us. They were feeling the same way!
The taxi driver was a very good man. Very friendly and very talkative. He was telling all kinds of stories to my husband about living in Palestine and how they felt like they were being bullied by the Israelis.
Then he gave us some advice regarding the site. He told us to find the officer that was controlling the line within the church. Because we were just 5 people, we would open a space so we could cut in line – the church was about to close, so it was a matter of take it or loose it.
We did as he told us. We had no problem cutting in line, but felt horrible about it! Everyone was trying to rush knowing that the time was running out. It was so crowded! You could hear another officer down the stairs pushing people to keep moving faster. Lots of chaos and a lot of adrenaline!
Once inside you can contemplate a very narrow cave with two special places to visit: a star on the floor representing where Jesus was born and a little space down a few steps filled with candles in which Jesus crib was placed for warmth. It was just a few seconds down, that flew fast! It was so worth it!
The taxi was waiting for us on the way out. We thanked the driver so much! He was so kind! He actually agreed on taking us us to the Chapel of the Milk Grotto of Our Lady. According to Christian tradition this was the place where the Holy Family found refuge during the Massacre of the Innocents, before they could flee to Egypt. The name is derived from the story that a “drop of milk” of the Virgin Mary fell on the floor of the cave and changed its colour to white.
The space, contains three different caves, and is visited by some in hope of healing infertile couples, the shrine allegedly being a place where prayers for children are miraculously answered. I did get some healing powder, because you never know when you might need it!
The moment of truth came in the blink of an eye. The sun had set and the night was taking over the sky. The taxi drove us to the pedestrian checkpoint. To be honest, I wasn’t thrilled. It looked like if we were voluntarily going into prison. Empty and isolated place. Very cold and very dark. I have to admit I felt vulnerable. However, the shocking surprise came as I noticed all the immigration officers were women. A little relief. just in case I get checked!
We did go into the line one by one. We showed the passport with the admission ticket you get when you arrive to Israel and with no questions asked and after a few minutes, we were all back in. That was EXTREMELY easy! We got into a bus that was going to the old City and Voila we were back at dinner time!
Wookitu 